*Best Offer* Air Bagged Wild Rod Factory Hard Top Convertible Roadster

Sale price: $31000,00 make an offer

Technical specifications

Manufacturer:Ford
Model:Other
Year:1937
Type:Hardtop Convertible
Fuel Type:Gasoline
Color:Red Gel Coat finsh
Mileage:20
Transmission:Automatic 700R4
Engine:Performance SBC 350
Trim:Stainless grille and headlight trim
Number of Cylinders:8
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Photos

Current customer rating: current rating for this car (3)
based on 9 votes

Description

*Best Offer* ALL NEW PARTS 1937 Ford Roadster Hardtop Convertible, Clear 1937 Title, PROFESSIONALLY BUILT, running driving Hot Rod, powering this Street Rod is a new Chevy Crate Performance 350cu. in. (projected 360 hp) 4-bolt main small block, this standard block was dyno tested for reliability before I stripped it completely down leaving only the crank and pistons (this combo is still sufficient for new horse power and staying w/pump gas), I next prepped/painted block engine black (semi-gloss), the engine upgrade started with a Edelbrock RPM Performer Cam (moderate idle lope) and matching flat tappet hydraulic lifters, Edelbrock Accu-Tune gear-drive set is connecting the crank/cam for precision timing (gear drive does not have "blower-loud" whine sound but mild whine which sounds great!), New performance harmonic dampner, rounding out the valve train is 0.100" taller hardened pushrods, new Speedmaster 1.5 ratio 7/16" red aluminum roller rockers w/dual locks, covered by polished fabricated aluminum valve covers w/chrome element breathers, topping the combustion chambers are polished Pro Comp 190cc 64cc aluminum cylinder heads w/.610 lift dual springs, hardened 7/16" rocker studs & push rod guides, ARP hardened head bolts and Fel-Pro head gaskets keep this unit clamped securely, Edelbrock polished aluminum RPM Performer air-gap intake manifold w/ARP stainless 12 pt. hardware and Fel-Pro intake gaskets complete the top end, engine also features billet aluminum ready-to-run distributor & high energy square coil, Taylor Spiro 8.5mm custom length black plug wires & new Champion spark plugs, polished billet aluminum timing chain cover (clearance correctly for gear drive), billet timing tab, billet Aluminum Alt.& A/C comp brackets, 5-groove billet aluminum serpentine pulley system complete with Tuff Stuff chrome reverse flow water pump and optional P.S. pulley, chrome 100 amp 1-wire alt., polished aluminum Sata A/C compressor, mixing air/fuel into this motor is a 650cc Mighty Demon 4-barrel carb. w/vacuum secondaries & electric choke, fuel system is a Edelbrock Performer fuel pump, -6 XRP fittings w/3/8" aluminum hard lines, -6 stainless braided soft lines and threaded in-line GM fuel filter, Bob Drakes reproduction gas tank w/external breather, sealed gas cap w/custom fill neck (measured for 1/2" protrusion after trunk interior), coolant flows green in this aluminum radiator and Flex-Lite electric fan/shroud w/180degree thermostat keeps the temperature under control, fabricated steel/hard radiator pipes, new SFI cert. 168-tooth flywheel, Hitachi mini torque starter keeps this motor turning, allowing this engine to breath is a set of jet coated Sanderson straight plug style block huggers, dual custom hand TIG 2 1/2" mild steel exhaust (which is fully welded, pics show fab stage only) flows through the chassis with no touching other components (no rattling or "performance dimples" used), 2-chamber Flow Masters keep this exhaust "throaty" (moderately loud), new 700 R4 trans. with new stall converter & shift kit, 4th gear lock-up pedal switch, stainless braided Lokar dipsick/TV cable and stainless linkage, new speedo housing w/correct speedo gear keeps this transmission under control, new 3" O.D. drive line made with HD u-joints and new yokes (drive line polished/clear coated so it will stay that shinny), Ford Explorer 8.8 differential w/3.55 gear ratio is fresh and leak free, 4-wheel disc brakes, new master cylinder w/6" brake booster, -3 XRP fittings w/3/16" stainless brake lines, Wilwood 2lb. residual valves, Wilwood proportioning valve, new XRP stainless braided brake hoses w/front polished thru-frame fittings, new calipers with new hardware & brake pads clamp firmly to all (4) new 11" big rotors, the chassis is brand new custom tubular cross brace, boxed/shaved frame rails, TCI front end removable trans. x-member, painted chassis black, suspension is Mustang II front with tubular a-arms, 2" drop spindles & billet Shock Wave airbags, complete w/functional front sway bar, triangulated adj. 4-link (no wheel side/side motion while traveling up/down, important in air bagged cars), rear billet adj. Shock Wave airbags keeps the ride height very comfortable, air tank & compressor are mounted securely in the trunk area, along w/billet Optima Red Top battery & 1/0 cables w/removable cut-off switch, Mustang II polished manual rack, Flamming River 3/4" DD shafts & joints attached to a chrome Flamming River 2 3/8" tilt steering column & shifter (column is adj. correctly for a range of different seat/height combos while still letting your legs move without interference even w/shifter in low gear), the leg room is great since I am 5' 11" and can completely stretch my legs out to the side of the pedals, yet a person 5' sat in it and adjusted the seat/steering wheel and felt comfortable (rare in Hot Rods), wood grain Grant GT steering wheel is very comfortable in your hands, this is a Wild Rod Factory fiberglass body w/suicide doors & Bear Claw latches, body is in red gel-coat and is in good shape, the doors, fenders, panels, roof, dash have all been adjusted, there is final frame gasket material already in place and all body bolts are tight, this is a practically shim-free car, gaps are very symmetrical, I only have shims in the front engine side panels (which are stamped side specific) and running boards (which I have written down how many each bolt hole takes), this body does NOT have reamed out holes, meaning all body bolts are same size and fit only one way (great for accurate assembly over and over again with out adjustment), Wild Rod Factory polished stainless grille and Bob Drake headlight kits w/buckets, signal lights, lens & stainless rings, trunk and hood hinges are fabricated just need to be attached to panels as well as the roof anchors, body feature full interior cage for stability (critical for convertible) and floor bracing mounted to the frame for maximum seat support (critical for fiberglass floor), installed are new black aircraft buckle type seat belts w/hardware going into body bolts (not just to floor w/ big washers), Glide bench seat w/armrest & flip up seat is mounted securely to adjustable seat brackets (seat actually travels 6" very smoothly without interference), brushed aluminum Lokar pedals, Auto-meter gauges are installed and function correctly w/new senders including gas tank, wheels are brand new chrome American Racing Torque Thrust-M 17"x7" front, 20"x8.5" rear, wrapped w/Lexani Z-rated low profile tires. Some points of interest on this Hot Rod: this might seem like a project to some for lack of paint/interior, but if you know what your looking at this is a built car that has been tuned and driven for streetability. The body has no rust or dents since fiberglass and is mostly prep work with minor body work. Interior is covering seat, carpet, door/kick panels. Usually people take the wrong approach to Hot Rod building and mock-up car (which is correct) but then take it to paint/upholstery right away, final assemble it then fire car and test it. I have seen where this gets people and you end up modifying the car still for streetability purposes and wasting all that effort in the chrome, paint, interior. I have the hard part done and now you can put this in a paint/int. scheme that you like and be ready for SPRING/SUMMER this year. This Rod fires on the key every time, drives/steers very tight, floats on airbags with no stiff/spongy feel (ride height was set per manufacturer recommendations for these air springs). All hardware is correct strength w/correct fasteners for street conditions (you won't have to hunt down hundreds of pieces of hardware), body is fit under suspension weight & body bolts tight (with no shims), panels, doors, etc. have all been fit, VIN clear & title is under my name only w/no liens or penalties, & registration is current. I have way to many build pictures for this vehicle to put on this ad, but if there is something specific I am positive I have a picture of it at various stages. To be clear, ALL parts are new and have been tested. You don't need to track down parts for this to be finished, it's already done! The wiring is all functional with correct gauge wire/fuses/fusible link (only wiring needed is head light switch, steering column). The car only has about 20 miles of street tune on it. I have compiled a build sheet that includes part numbers, gaskets, bearings brakes, ride heights, reference vehicles etc. (which comes in handy when going to local parts stores and the counter person needs year/make/model) I have multiple builds and I have moved to another facility and I am (1) car short as far as space. No "low ballers" please, I do not need to sell this for quick money. This type of Street Rod at this stage would easily be at $60,000+ w/parts in a shop and you can potentially get it for less than half that cost. I have extensive experience in car restoration (30yrs.) and Hot Rod building (15yrs), this was my personal car and I took all the common problems and avoided a great deal of them. These cars done are still going for over $50,000 even to this day, some close to $90,000 meaning here is a chance to buy a car and still have room to profit in the future (again rare in building this level of Hot Rod). Car is sold as is. $500 deposit via PayPal will be due within 48 hours from end of this auction. Shipping will be provided by customer, but I will work with you & your shipper to make this a pleasurable transaction. If you have any additional questions, please feel free to email me. Thank you for your interest in this Hot Rod.

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